"Hey Guys,
Had probly the best surfing day of my life yesterday! went to shippes and there was only 4 of us out with 2 skis all day,I think I got about 50 waves haha! A few bombs came through but generally 10-12 foot.
Had quite a few beatings but got a few good ones. Best thing was there was nobody else around there and it was so nice to share such big and hollow waves with mates that were all really enthusiastic and keen to go whatever came to them!
I reckon we are all still smiling today, it was unbelievable. Im living and loving it!
Attached is one of my waves, I actually got sucked back into the barrel and lost alot of speed and the foamball just caught me after the last frame! I got some tunnel vision though!"
4-Sep-10 12:51AM